THIS Is Why Natural Wine is Cool. (spoiler: not because it's trendy) Newsletter #???
Natural wine is not a trend, it's a movement within sustainability.
I got into some hot water last week on Tiktok when I made a video of me rolling my eyes and saying that I was tired of seeing people bandwagon-ing the natural wine movement because it’s trendy and NOT because they (bandwagoners) actually care about sustainability and ethics.
To my surprise, a lot of people left comments like “let people like what they like” and “stop putting people down", and other comments totally disregarding the fact that the natural wine movement is MUCH deeper than trends and actually stems from deep roots in sustainability and ethics.
One comment even read “the earth is on fire and this is what we care about??” PRECISELY MY POINT. The earth is on fire, therefore we should prioritize better practices and conscious consumption over fads. If someone was upset with my “tone” in the video, I encourage them to evaluate what they’re really upset about because natural wine is a movement based in climate action.
While my video was partially a joke, I do roll my eyes at the countless brands and other folks thinking beautifully colored wines and vibey wine bars are the reason why natural wine is cool. Natural wine is cool because the movement is built upon a standard of ethics and expectations that strive to make the world a better, more sustainable place.
While I know the topic is extremely nuanced, I'd like to take a moment to remind folks what the natural wine movement is REALLY about.
Natural wine is the traditional and original method of winemaking used around the world for generations, before the industrialization of wine. Industrialization occurred after the 1950s in Napa (ie Robert Mondavi and friends) with the use of machinery, chemicals, cheap labor to mass produce grapes and wine products. Adding sugar to wine to spike alcohol levels became the norm. Though this period of growth in the wine industry made wine more accessible across the world, it has ultimately led to a cheaper, more standardized product. Like most industries, the industrialization of wine has has also led to exploitation of resources, labor, product and the earth as a whole.
Many of these practices made their way around the world, including renowned regions, like France. While France maintains a different set of standards for agriculture and food/beverage products, manipulation in winemaking became the norm. Of course, there have always been independent and small producers who practiced traditional methods—but they were radical, and not what the market wanted. In the mid 80s however, a group of winemakers, now nicknamed the Gang of Four decided to push back. They were tired of boring ass wines and wanted to return to the traditional methods of farming and winemaking. A more hands off approach if you will: no chemicals in the vineyard, minimal to zero added sulphur, only using native yeast, hand harvested grapes, no big machinery, etc etc.
These four (and others) have inspired the last 30-something years of winemaking, which we now refer to as “natural wine.” So, in a nutshell, that’s the origin story of natural wine. With natural wine has come a movement of winemakers, importers/distributors, and shop owners dedicated to practicing ethical and sustainable production and consumption.
When I talk about natural wines, I’m talking about wines that are produced with extra careful attention and intention for the environment. I’m talking about regenerative farming. Grapes that are grown without chemicals, mindful of water usage and wildlife corridors. Vineyards that pay their workers a livable wage and protect workers from exploitation. Producers that care as much about what’s in the bottle as the people who pick the grapes. Producers who are looking for ways to lighten their carbon footprint and find innovative ways to repackage wine; find lighter glass bottles, cans, eco-friendly pouches or bags (still waiting for boxes though!). Distributors and shopkeepers who are dedicated to keeping it as local as possible to help reduce carbon emissions and support winemakers and labels with incredible stories and dreams. Consumers that do their research on producers, wines and news to keep the level of expectation high enough to keep positive change going, but also offer grace when their favorite producer slips up and commits to making change. THAT is what I’m talking about when I talk about natural wine and THAT is why I love this movement so much.
Recent earth and societal happenings require immediate and swift climate action. I know we can’t always be the 100% sustainable 100% of the time, I know it’s not realistic to assume every single person is going to know or practice the same level of consumption. But all I’m asking is that we try a little harder. Think a little more critically. Don’t just buy something because its on trend. Think about the impact your purchase will have. Think about the change YOU can create in this world with something as small as the food you eat and the wine you drink. It all matters. It’s not just grape juice.